The Rolex Submariner: A Complete Guide to the Full Range
The Rolex Submariner: A Complete Guide to the Full Range
From the entry-level no-date to the gold-clad prestige pieces – everything you need to know before you buy the Rolex Submariner!
Few watches carry the cultural weight of the Rolex Submariner. Introduced in 1953 as one of the world’s first purpose-built dive watches, it has since transcended its original brief to become one of the most recognisable – and most coveted – timepieces ever made. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or buying your first serious watch, understanding the Submariner range is essential reading. Here at Luxury Watch Group, we’ve put together this complete guide to help you navigate every reference in the current lineup.
“The Submariner isn’t just a watch – it’s a reference point. Every sports watch made in the last 70 years has been measured against it.”
THE RANGE:
Ref. 124060
Submariner (No Date)
Entry Point
The purist’s choice. The no-date Submariner is the most stripped-back expression of the line – no date window at 3 o’clock means a perfectly symmetrical dial that many collectors actually prefer. Launched in 2020 with an updated 41mm case, it carries Rolex’s in-house calibre 3230, delivering a class-leading 70-hour power reserve. The Oystersteel bracelet with Glidelock extension clasp makes it as comfortable on a wetsuit as it is on a shirt cuff.
Reference: 124060
Case size: 41mm
Movement: Cal. 3230
Power reserve: 70 hours
Water resistance: 300m
Dial options: Black
Material: Oystersteel
Bezel: Cerachrom ceramic
Ref. 126610LN
Submariner Date – Black Bezel – Date 
Most Popular
The definitive Submariner. If you picture a Sub in your head, this is almost certainly it – black dial, black Cerachrom bezel, Oystersteel bracelet. The 126610LN is the benchmark against which all sports watches are compared. Updated in 2020 alongside its no-date sibling, it now runs on the calibre 3235 with a Chronergy escapement and 70-hour reserve. The cyclops lens magnifies the date at 3 o’clock, and the Mercedes hands are as iconic as watchmaking gets.
Reference: 126610LN
Case size: 41mm
Movement: Cal. 3235
Power reserve: 70 hours
Water resistance: 300m
Dial options: Black
Bezel colour: Black ceramic
Date: Yes – Cyclops
Ref. 126610LV
Submariner Date – Green Bezel (“Kermit”)
Collector Favourite
Affectionately nicknamed the “Starbucks” by the watch community (a green bezel on a black dial), the 126610LV is one of the most talked-about references in Rolex’s current production. The vivid green Cerachrom bezel pairs beautifully with the black dial, and the yellow gold applied hour markers and hands add just the right amount of warmth. Originally introduced as the “Kermit” in 2003 to mark the Submariner’s 50th anniversary, this modern iteration elevated the concept to new heights.
Reference: 126610LV
Case size: 41mm
Movement: Cal. 3235
Power reserve: 70 hours
Water resistance: 300m
Dial options: Black
Bezel colour: Green ceramic
Markers: Yellow gold
Ref. 126613LN / 126613LB
Submariner Date – Rolesor (Steel & Gold)
Two-Tone Luxury
Rolex’s proprietary Rolesor – a combination of Oystersteel and 18ct yellow gold – elevates the Submariner into genuinely luxurious territory. Available with either a black bezel (126613LN) or a blue bezel and dial (126613LB), the Rolesor Sub is for those who want presence without committing entirely to gold. The two-tone bracelet is immediately recognisable and ages beautifully. The blue-dialled variant, often called the “Bluesy”, is particularly sought after in the pre-owned market.
Reference: 126613LN/LB
Case size: 41mm
Movement: Cal. 3235
Power reserve: 70 hours
Material: Steel & 18ct gold
Bezel options: Black or Blue
Dial options: Black or Blue
Bracelet: Two-tone Oyster
Ref. 126618LN / 126618LB
Submariner Date – Yellow Gold
Full Gold
The full yellow gold Submariner is a statement piece in every sense. Heavier, warmer, and considerably rarer than its steel counterparts, the 126618 is available in both black and blue dial/bezel combinations. The all-gold Oyster bracelet is extraordinary to wear and to look at, and the dial luminosity against gold applied markers is stunning in lower light. If you want the most commanding version of the Submariner, this is it. Resale values for gold Submariners have remained exceptionally strong.
Reference: 126618LN/LB
Case size: 41mm
Movement: Cal. 3235
Power reserve: 70 hours
Material: 18ct yellow gold
Bezel options: Black or Blue
Dial options: Black or Blue
Bracelet: Full gold Oyster
Ref. 126619LB
Submariner Date – White Gold
Rarest in Range
The most exclusive production Submariner money can buy. The 126619LB comes in 18ct white gold with a striking blue dial and blue Cerachrom bezel – a combination that feels modern, cool, and genuinely unlike anything else in the sports watch world. White gold is harder and more scratch-resistant than yellow gold, and the contrast between the bright metal and vivid blue is simply breathtaking. This is the watch for the collector who already has everything else and wants the one that turns the most heads.
Reference: 126619LB
Case size: 41mm
Movement: Cal. 3235
Power reserve: 70 hours
Material: 18ct white gold
Bezel colour: Blue ceramic
Dial: Blue
Rarity: Very limited
WHAT THEY ALL SHARE:
Across every reference in the Submariner range, certain features remain constant – and they’re a big part of why the watch has endured for over 70 years. Every Submariner is built with Rolex’s Oyster case, offering 300 metres of water resistance as standard. The unidirectional rotatable bezel with Cerachrom ceramic insert is virtually scratch-proof and UV-resistant. All current references run on a movement certified as a Superlative Chronometer –ย accurate to ยฑ2 seconds per day, which is twice as precise as standard COSC certification. And every watch comes with Rolex’s signature Glidelock clasp, allowing micro-adjustment of the bracelet length without tools.
Which Submariner is right for you?
If you want the cleanest, most classic expression of the design, go no-date. If you want the most wearable all-rounder, the black – or green-date Submariner in steel is hard to argue with. If you want something with a bit more jewellery appeal, the Rolesor two-tone is the sweet spot between sport and luxury. And if budget is no barrier, the white gold 126619LB is genuinely one of the great watches of the modern era.
At Luxury Watch Group, we stock a curated selection of the Rolex Submariner references -both current production and pre-owned – all supplied with full documentation and our own authenticity guarantee. Whether you’re buying your first Sub or adding to a growing collection, our team is here to help you find the right one.
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